Closed to foreigners for decades, Upper Dolpo Trekking Region is a Nepali Land but still culturally Tibetan. An enchanted legend for the omnipresence of Guru Rimpoche, who spread Tibetan Buddhism in the Himalayan Region, upper Dolpo was supposedly discovered as a refuge about 1700 years ago. This land is currently inhabited by the Tibetan nomads, called Drokpas, who have been living there for 1000 years. One can encounter a chance to interact and watch the living of these tribes during the upper Dolpo Treklking. Upper Dolpo Trekking is for the tekking enthusiasts; this is quite difficult and physically challenging trek and requires 5-6 hours of trekking on the high Himalayan terrain with bizarre topography.
Historically Dolpo wa the part of Zhangzhung Bon-po Kingdom known to dominate the western part of Tibet for thousands of years and later defecated by the first Tibetan dynasty Yarlung, somewhere between sixth and eighth century. Later in the history we can find the evidence of the Upper Dolpo being ruled by the Kingdom of Lo until the Gurkha Kingdom took it over in the Nepal Unification Campaign lead by King Prithivi Narayan Shah. Since then, Upper Dolpo has remained isolated mostly due to the remoteness and difficult topography and additionally because the Khampa guerrillas, used it as the base of their rebellion against the Chinese government against the Chinese occupation of Tibet after 1959. The Upper Dolpo remained closed to the foreigners till 1989 and then only some parts of the southern Dolpo were opened. Still some parts of the Dolpo are restricted and a permit is required to trek in those regions. Those regions that required permit to trek beyond in the Upper Dolpo are trekking region above Phoksumdo Lake in Shey Phoksumdo National Park, Though Nepal’s largest district by area, Dolpa has the population of approximately 5000 inhabitants, most of which migrate to the southern region in the winters.
With settlements at the altitude of 4000m and plus, these villages just might be the highest settlements in the globe. Restrained by Dhaulagiri Himalaya in south and east, the Sisne and Kanjiroba Mountain in the west and Tibet on the north, most of the people living in the upper Dolpo are mongoloid and Tibetan Speaking. Tough most of the people are illiterate; people in this region are not poor. One might see some strange way of marriage and disposal of dead bodies in this area. Pre-marital and extra-marital sex unions are not prejudiced and marriages can be of many types; namely arrangement, capture or elopement. Most of the Dolpo People are Buddhist but Bon-po sect of Buddhism also co exists. Dolpo people dispose off their dead in somewhat strange ways. They might either throw their dead in the river or they cut their deads in to small pieces and feed the vultures.
Historically Dolpo wa the part of Zhangzhung Bon-po Kingdom known to dominate the western part of Tibet for thousands of years and later defecated by the first Tibetan dynasty Yarlung, somewhere between sixth and eighth century. Later in the history we can find the evidence of the Upper Dolpo being ruled by the Kingdom of Lo until the Gurkha Kingdom took it over in the Nepal Unification Campaign lead by King Prithivi Narayan Shah. Since then, Upper Dolpo has remained isolated mostly due to the remoteness and difficult topography and additionally because the Khampa guerrillas, used it as the base of their rebellion against the Chinese government against the Chinese occupation of Tibet after 1959. The Upper Dolpo remained closed to the foreigners till 1989 and then only some parts of the southern Dolpo were opened. Still some parts of the Dolpo are restricted and a permit is required to trek in those regions. Those regions that required permit to trek beyond in the Upper Dolpo are trekking region above Phoksumdo Lake in Shey Phoksumdo National Park, Though Nepal’s largest district by area, Dolpa has the population of approximately 5000 inhabitants, most of which migrate to the southern region in the winters.
With settlements at the altitude of 4000m and plus, these villages just might be the highest settlements in the globe. Restrained by Dhaulagiri Himalaya in south and east, the Sisne and Kanjiroba Mountain in the west and Tibet on the north, most of the people living in the upper Dolpo are mongoloid and Tibetan Speaking. Tough most of the people are illiterate; people in this region are not poor. One might see some strange way of marriage and disposal of dead bodies in this area. Pre-marital and extra-marital sex unions are not prejudiced and marriages can be of many types; namely arrangement, capture or elopement. Most of the Dolpo People are Buddhist but Bon-po sect of Buddhism also co exists. Dolpo people dispose off their dead in somewhat strange ways. They might either throw their dead in the river or they cut their deads in to small pieces and feed the vultures.
tinerary in Details:
Day 1:Arrive in Kathmandu
On your arrival at Kathmandu Airport, you will be greeted by our representative and taken to the Hotel. Your first night you will spend in Kathmandu. O/n at Hotel
On your arrival at Kathmandu Airport, you will be greeted by our representative and taken to the Hotel. Your first night you will spend in Kathmandu. O/n at Hotel
Day 2:Kathmandu City Tour
After having breakfast we will take you sightseeing around Kathmandu valley. You will visit many Buddhist and Hindu temple which reflect the local culture and tradition of Nepalese society. In the afternoon we will return you to the hotel.
After having breakfast we will take you sightseeing around Kathmandu valley. You will visit many Buddhist and Hindu temple which reflect the local culture and tradition of Nepalese society. In the afternoon we will return you to the hotel.
Day 3:Juphal-Dunai
Juphal has the surrounding villages are a mix of Hindu and Buddhist, an interesting look into the middle hills of Nepal. After breakfast we will start to walking Dunai headquater of Dolpo district we make a camp somewhere in town. Our leader aand other crew will spend the afternoon supplying for the trek, and you are free to explore the small village ...
Juphal has the surrounding villages are a mix of Hindu and Buddhist, an interesting look into the middle hills of Nepal. After breakfast we will start to walking Dunai headquater of Dolpo district we make a camp somewhere in town. Our leader aand other crew will spend the afternoon supplying for the trek, and you are free to explore the small village ...
Day 2:Trek to Sulighat (2075m)
We start off slowly, descending steeply down to the main trail, and then hiking along a wide trail following the western bank of the clear, turquoise Thuli Bheri River; in back of us is Tripurakot Village, an important Hindu pilgrimage sight with a wonderful Kali temple perched high on a hillside. Note the animistic carved figures along the trail, a throw-back to pre-Hindu and pre-Buddhist days, still in use. It will take us about three hours of scenic, easy walking to reach the new suspension bridge at the confluence of the Thuli Bheri and the Suli Gaad which leads to the Army post. A short walk up-river brings us to another new suspension bridge leading to the small hamlet of Sulighat, where we enter the National Park. We set up camp in Sulighat, a short day to enable us to stay at good campsites further up the valley towards Phoksumdo Lake. Relax, have a cup of chai, and enjoy the afternoon.
We start off slowly, descending steeply down to the main trail, and then hiking along a wide trail following the western bank of the clear, turquoise Thuli Bheri River; in back of us is Tripurakot Village, an important Hindu pilgrimage sight with a wonderful Kali temple perched high on a hillside. Note the animistic carved figures along the trail, a throw-back to pre-Hindu and pre-Buddhist days, still in use. It will take us about three hours of scenic, easy walking to reach the new suspension bridge at the confluence of the Thuli Bheri and the Suli Gaad which leads to the Army post. A short walk up-river brings us to another new suspension bridge leading to the small hamlet of Sulighat, where we enter the National Park. We set up camp in Sulighat, a short day to enable us to stay at good campsites further up the valley towards Phoksumdo Lake. Relax, have a cup of chai, and enjoy the afternoon.
Day 3:Trek to Chhepka (2675m)
Finally a real trekking day, and beautiful one as we hike along the famous Suli Ghad (river) through dramatic forests of pine, fir and birch through dramatic, steep canyons. The trail is hilly, sometimes high above the river and often right along the bank. We reach the three-house village of Kageni after a few hours of cliff-side walking, crossing the Suli Ghad on a small, wooden bridge to reach the campsite at Raktang. Continuing along the western bank of the river, we pass several goths (pastures) and the basic stone houses of Jyalhasa, a seasonal settlement of the Ringmo inhabitants. We climb slightly, hike through open woods, and later cross the river again at Shyanta, where the owners of small campsite and shop keep bee-hives. Notice the carved bridge posts along the way today. It will take us about another half an hour to reach the lovely campsite at the small hamlet of Chhepka,
Finally a real trekking day, and beautiful one as we hike along the famous Suli Ghad (river) through dramatic forests of pine, fir and birch through dramatic, steep canyons. The trail is hilly, sometimes high above the river and often right along the bank. We reach the three-house village of Kageni after a few hours of cliff-side walking, crossing the Suli Ghad on a small, wooden bridge to reach the campsite at Raktang. Continuing along the western bank of the river, we pass several goths (pastures) and the basic stone houses of Jyalhasa, a seasonal settlement of the Ringmo inhabitants. We climb slightly, hike through open woods, and later cross the river again at Shyanta, where the owners of small campsite and shop keep bee-hives. Notice the carved bridge posts along the way today. It will take us about another half an hour to reach the lovely campsite at the small hamlet of Chhepka,
Day 4:Trek to Amchi Hospital
Another wonderful day of wooded gorge trekking, one of our favorites from 2008. Leaving Chhepka, we re-cross the Suli Ghad twice, mostly staying close to the river and hiking through woods of firs and larches and through a dramatic, deep gorge, several times hiking right by the riverside on stone steps. Bird watchers will love this section; wag-tails flit from rock to rock along the riverbank, and the trees are alive with many other varieties of small birds. We soon reach the campsite and tented tea-houses of Rechi, run by Tibetans from Ringmo, where we will probably stop for lunch by the river. The region starts to have a real Tibetan feel from now on, the locals dressed in traditional Tibetan garb, and the women adorned in their Tibetan turquoise, coral and amber necklaces. From Rechi, the trail climbs steeply to an amazing viewpoint up and down the Suli Ghad from the trail, hewn out between rock and tree-trunk. After passing several small bridges leading west, we reach our wonderful, river-side campsite just past the Amchi Gompa (Tapriza Cultural) school at Sumduwa, across the river from the Amchi Hospital. This is the confluence of the Pungmo Chu and the Suli Ghad, now known as the Phoksumdo Khola. From the west bank of the river, a trail leads northwest towards the Kagmara La (pass) and on to Jumla. Our trail to Phoksumdo Lake the next day follows the west bank of the river, and the trail on the east of the Phoksumdo River branches off to the east and leads to Dho Tarap. Thus the name Sum (three) Duwa (trails)
Another wonderful day of wooded gorge trekking, one of our favorites from 2008. Leaving Chhepka, we re-cross the Suli Ghad twice, mostly staying close to the river and hiking through woods of firs and larches and through a dramatic, deep gorge, several times hiking right by the riverside on stone steps. Bird watchers will love this section; wag-tails flit from rock to rock along the riverbank, and the trees are alive with many other varieties of small birds. We soon reach the campsite and tented tea-houses of Rechi, run by Tibetans from Ringmo, where we will probably stop for lunch by the river. The region starts to have a real Tibetan feel from now on, the locals dressed in traditional Tibetan garb, and the women adorned in their Tibetan turquoise, coral and amber necklaces. From Rechi, the trail climbs steeply to an amazing viewpoint up and down the Suli Ghad from the trail, hewn out between rock and tree-trunk. After passing several small bridges leading west, we reach our wonderful, river-side campsite just past the Amchi Gompa (Tapriza Cultural) school at Sumduwa, across the river from the Amchi Hospital. This is the confluence of the Pungmo Chu and the Suli Ghad, now known as the Phoksumdo Khola. From the west bank of the river, a trail leads northwest towards the Kagmara La (pass) and on to Jumla. Our trail to Phoksumdo Lake the next day follows the west bank of the river, and the trail on the east of the Phoksumdo River branches off to the east and leads to Dho Tarap. Thus the name Sum (three) Duwa (trails)
Day 5:Trek to Ringmo 3725m
A short but fantastic day of trekking, a Himalayan classic! After several cups of freshly brewed coffee to warm us up, we backtrack a few minutes to the bridge next to the school, and cross to the west of the Phoksumdo Khola, continuing past the small Amchi Hospital (an Amchi is a traditional Tibetan doctor/healer) and then up quite steeply through a forest of cedars and through the winter settlement of the Ringmo-pa, Polam. We ascend steeply for another hour or so, switch-backing on a spectacular, alpine trail to a ridge at about 38000 meters strewn with multi-colored Tibetan prayer flags and overlooking the magnificent falls, 200 meters high, that drain into the Suli Ghad, and of Phoksumdo Lake itself; an awesome sight! We continue along this high, sandy trail, descending slowly through a lovely birch forest to Phoksumdo Khola (river). We have finally reach the village of Ringmo on the opaque, deep turquoise Phoksumdo Lake. Legend tells of a demoness that caused this lake to be formed during Guru Rimpoche's conversion of Dolpo to Buddhism, a perpetual symbol of the struggle between the Bon and Buddhist religions.
A short but fantastic day of trekking, a Himalayan classic! After several cups of freshly brewed coffee to warm us up, we backtrack a few minutes to the bridge next to the school, and cross to the west of the Phoksumdo Khola, continuing past the small Amchi Hospital (an Amchi is a traditional Tibetan doctor/healer) and then up quite steeply through a forest of cedars and through the winter settlement of the Ringmo-pa, Polam. We ascend steeply for another hour or so, switch-backing on a spectacular, alpine trail to a ridge at about 38000 meters strewn with multi-colored Tibetan prayer flags and overlooking the magnificent falls, 200 meters high, that drain into the Suli Ghad, and of Phoksumdo Lake itself; an awesome sight! We continue along this high, sandy trail, descending slowly through a lovely birch forest to Phoksumdo Khola (river). We have finally reach the village of Ringmo on the opaque, deep turquoise Phoksumdo Lake. Legend tells of a demoness that caused this lake to be formed during Guru Rimpoche's conversion of Dolpo to Buddhism, a perpetual symbol of the struggle between the Bon and Buddhist religions.
We camp for the night below the house in Ringmo, at the south end of the lake, and will have the afternoon to relax and wash up perhaps in the lake next to the yaks ...
Day 6:Ringmo
A rest and exploration day, finally, in this picturesque village of flat-roofed stone houses, mani walls and impressive chortens surrounded by junipers. The ancient, white-washed Thasoon Chholing Bon-po Gompa is a 20 minute walk from our campsite along the forested eastern shores of the lake, worth taking a short hike to see. And of course we sit right on the shore of the spectacular Phoksumdo Lake; remember the harrowing scene in 'Himalaya' when Thinley's yak caravan attempted the 'Devil's Trail'. Yak caravans will be heading in and out of Ringmo on their way north towards the border of Tibet, and our most northerly destinations, Saldang and Thinje. Take a quick look at the famous bridge just a five minute walk to the west of our campsite, just at the southern end of the lake, and gaze back at the impressive peaks to the southeast of us. The largest one is Kanjiroba, and the snow-peak to the east of that is Sonam Kang.
A rest and exploration day, finally, in this picturesque village of flat-roofed stone houses, mani walls and impressive chortens surrounded by junipers. The ancient, white-washed Thasoon Chholing Bon-po Gompa is a 20 minute walk from our campsite along the forested eastern shores of the lake, worth taking a short hike to see. And of course we sit right on the shore of the spectacular Phoksumdo Lake; remember the harrowing scene in 'Himalaya' when Thinley's yak caravan attempted the 'Devil's Trail'. Yak caravans will be heading in and out of Ringmo on their way north towards the border of Tibet, and our most northerly destinations, Saldang and Thinje. Take a quick look at the famous bridge just a five minute walk to the west of our campsite, just at the southern end of the lake, and gaze back at the impressive peaks to the southeast of us. The largest one is Kanjiroba, and the snow-peak to the east of that is Sonam Kang.
Day 07:Trek to Chabluk Phu 3625m
A classic Himalayan trekking day; one of my top-ten mountain days anywhere! We leave our lovely campsite after breakfast, heading north along a dramatic, precipitous trail high on the western side of the lake. We cross the 'high' bridge that collapsed during the movie 'Himalaya' after a few minutes, and then ascend on a narrow, cliff-side trail. The views are un-beatable, with Kanjiroba and Sonam Kang rising to the south - if you can take your eyes off the trail! Half an hour later, we descend back down to the lake, cross a small stream and some scrubby wooded areas, and then climb up again, much higher this time. We eventually reach a crest at just over 4000 meters, worth a long rest and many photos. We continue along this spectacular trail, staying high, as the lake opens up in different aspects in front of us, Near the northern end of the lake we make a long, gradual descent through a lovely forest of craggy Himalayan birches to reach our scenic lake-side campsite at Chabluk Phu, a local grazing area, just where the trail hits level ground.
A classic Himalayan trekking day; one of my top-ten mountain days anywhere! We leave our lovely campsite after breakfast, heading north along a dramatic, precipitous trail high on the western side of the lake. We cross the 'high' bridge that collapsed during the movie 'Himalaya' after a few minutes, and then ascend on a narrow, cliff-side trail. The views are un-beatable, with Kanjiroba and Sonam Kang rising to the south - if you can take your eyes off the trail! Half an hour later, we descend back down to the lake, cross a small stream and some scrubby wooded areas, and then climb up again, much higher this time. We eventually reach a crest at just over 4000 meters, worth a long rest and many photos. We continue along this spectacular trail, staying high, as the lake opens up in different aspects in front of us, Near the northern end of the lake we make a long, gradual descent through a lovely forest of craggy Himalayan birches to reach our scenic lake-side campsite at Chabluk Phu, a local grazing area, just where the trail hits level ground.
Day 08:Trek to Ngongda La Base Camp (Snowfields Camp) 4625m
Yet another incredible day of hiking, starting with a level walk through scrub and briars, now changing to muted Autumn colors. We are entering the real Dolpo, and to enter into this mystical land we have to cross the Ngongda La pass.The valley is magical as we head north, filled with an open forest of birches and rose-buds, and soon narrows. We turn east up a small following a rocky river, and after lunch near the confluence we climb through stones and boulders on a small trail, crossing the stream several times by rock-hopping or on small, wooden bridges. Finally, a few hours later, we reach our 'high' camp.
Yet another incredible day of hiking, starting with a level walk through scrub and briars, now changing to muted Autumn colors. We are entering the real Dolpo, and to enter into this mystical land we have to cross the Ngongda La pass.The valley is magical as we head north, filled with an open forest of birches and rose-buds, and soon narrows. We turn east up a small following a rocky river, and after lunch near the confluence we climb through stones and boulders on a small trail, crossing the stream several times by rock-hopping or on small, wooden bridges. Finally, a few hours later, we reach our 'high' camp.
Day 09:Trek to Shey Gompa 4375m
Now begins our trek to the fabled Shey Gompa and neighboring 'Crystal Mountain' the most sacred peak in Dolpo which Dolpo pilgrims circumambulate, during the full moon, before the yearly grain harvest. The sacred mountain is knows as the 'Kailash' of Dolpo; the mythology behind it describes a Tibetan Buddhist lama who battles the fierce local mountain spirit on a snow-lion, perhaps the same lama who founded Shey Gompa.
Now begins our trek to the fabled Shey Gompa and neighboring 'Crystal Mountain' the most sacred peak in Dolpo which Dolpo pilgrims circumambulate, during the full moon, before the yearly grain harvest. The sacred mountain is knows as the 'Kailash' of Dolpo; the mythology behind it describes a Tibetan Buddhist lama who battles the fierce local mountain spirit on a snow-lion, perhaps the same lama who founded Shey Gompa.
We wake up early for our challenging pass crossing, heading up the rocky valley to the base of the pass, where we turn west and hike up a steep trail traversing loose slate to the crest of the Ngongda La (5375 meters). What views we are treated to for our efforts! We have views of the peaks Shey Shikkar and Kang Chunne, both just over 6000 meters, before descending steeply down to the wide valley floor.We are entering George Schaller's blue sheep (and snow leopard) country, so keep the binoculars ready. After stopping for lunch by the stream that we are following down the valley, we pass a long, ancient mani wall and finally spot Shey Gompa and the small village of Shey. A red chorten marks the entrance to Shey, where we stay for the next two nights just below the gompa at a wonderful, grassy campsite next to the threshing circle.
Day 10 :Shey
The 11th-13th century, ochre Shey Gompa is a wonderful monastery, with colorful Tibetan murals and old statues inside which the gate-keeper, a lay monk, and his family The gompa was fabled to have been constructed by a Tibetan Buddhist lama, arriving on the back of a mythical snow-lion. The murals are not old, but there is a valuable scroll that describes the mythology behind sacred Crystal Mountain and Shey Gompa, including where to find the milky lake in the interior of the Crystal Mountain kora which allows the pilgrim to see Mount Kailash in the far distance. To the left of Shey Gompa is another gompa, built into the cliff-side. You might remember the prayer-room inside from the movie 'Himalaya'. Make a 'kora' of the gompa complex and relax for the rest of the day with a book, soaking in the spectacular views from our campsite.
The 11th-13th century, ochre Shey Gompa is a wonderful monastery, with colorful Tibetan murals and old statues inside which the gate-keeper, a lay monk, and his family The gompa was fabled to have been constructed by a Tibetan Buddhist lama, arriving on the back of a mythical snow-lion. The murals are not old, but there is a valuable scroll that describes the mythology behind sacred Crystal Mountain and Shey Gompa, including where to find the milky lake in the interior of the Crystal Mountain kora which allows the pilgrim to see Mount Kailash in the far distance. To the left of Shey Gompa is another gompa, built into the cliff-side. You might remember the prayer-room inside from the movie 'Himalaya'. Make a 'kora' of the gompa complex and relax for the rest of the day with a book, soaking in the spectacular views from our campsite.
For those wanting to explore, we'll make a pilgrimage to a sacred gompa to the west of Shey perhaps venturing even further the valley towards Phijor and Samling Gompas. But first, perched amongst the craggy, red cliffs, is the smaller but perhaps more important Tsakhang Gompa (which means red gompa, after the cliffs) of the Kagyupa sect, knows for its teachers Tilopa, Marpa and Milarepa. The incarnation of the first Tsakhang lama, the 17th 'trulku' of this line, is a young lama from Phijor now studying in Kathmandu. The gompa is filled with colorful Buddhist paintings and rare thankas.
Day 11:Trek to Namgung 4430m
On the trail again; the next few days cover some of the most culturally interesting regions of the trek, and of course the scenery is equally spectacular. We leave Shey and head east along the Sephu Khola towards the Saldang La (or Shey La), a gradual three hour hike up the valley past many ancient mani walls. A last steep climb brings us to the prayer-flag festooned summit at 5075 meters. From the windy pass, we are treated to magnificent panoramic views of the peaks surrounding Dolpo, with Mustang to the east, Tibet to the north , and Kanjiroba, Kagmara and Riu Dhukta, or the Crystal Mountain, to the West. The landscape resembles more and more the arid plateaus and canyons of neighboring Mustang as we descend through this other-worldly landscape. We descent quite steeply to a small stream, where we continue to contour around the hillsides heading towards Namgung. We'll stop for lunch at a seasonal herding settlement, and then follow our yaks to Namgung. Once around the hillsides, the ancient red and white Namgung Gompa, perched on the hill-side behind Namgung village, appears impressively below us, the older gompa built into the cliff while the newer gompa sits with the two houses of Namgung. Other ruins of ancient gompas and dwellings are built into the cliff-side near Namgung, adding to the mystique of this area. Take a walk down to the crumbling gompa,
On the trail again; the next few days cover some of the most culturally interesting regions of the trek, and of course the scenery is equally spectacular. We leave Shey and head east along the Sephu Khola towards the Saldang La (or Shey La), a gradual three hour hike up the valley past many ancient mani walls. A last steep climb brings us to the prayer-flag festooned summit at 5075 meters. From the windy pass, we are treated to magnificent panoramic views of the peaks surrounding Dolpo, with Mustang to the east, Tibet to the north , and Kanjiroba, Kagmara and Riu Dhukta, or the Crystal Mountain, to the West. The landscape resembles more and more the arid plateaus and canyons of neighboring Mustang as we descend through this other-worldly landscape. We descent quite steeply to a small stream, where we continue to contour around the hillsides heading towards Namgung. We'll stop for lunch at a seasonal herding settlement, and then follow our yaks to Namgung. Once around the hillsides, the ancient red and white Namgung Gompa, perched on the hill-side behind Namgung village, appears impressively below us, the older gompa built into the cliff while the newer gompa sits with the two houses of Namgung. Other ruins of ancient gompas and dwellings are built into the cliff-side near Namgung, adding to the mystique of this area. Take a walk down to the crumbling gompa,
Day 12:Trek to Saldang
A short but spectacular day along the trail towards Saldang, passing several 'doksas' en route. After a few hours of easy walking, we crest a ridge topped with prayer flags and look down on Saldang below us and the crinkle of dun-colored mountains to the north, bordering on Tibet. After much contouring, we reach 'Caravan Thinle's' house at the northern end of the village, where we will possibly stop for some salt-butter tea and a cup of Tibetan barley beer, called 'chang'
A short but spectacular day along the trail towards Saldang, passing several 'doksas' en route. After a few hours of easy walking, we crest a ridge topped with prayer flags and look down on Saldang below us and the crinkle of dun-colored mountains to the north, bordering on Tibet. After much contouring, we reach 'Caravan Thinle's' house at the northern end of the village, where we will possibly stop for some salt-butter tea and a cup of Tibetan barley beer, called 'chang'
Our spectacularly set campsite is at the far south of this large village, so we'll have at least half an hour to wander through this fascinating, scenic Tibetan village to reach it. We camp just above Saldang's gilded gompa.
Day 13:Saldang
A free day in Saldang, in the Nangkhang region of Dolpo, with many options for the day's explorations. One is to make a loop through some of the villages north of Saldang, where the Autumn harvest will be in full force. Follow the Nagon Khola north to Karang and Marang villages for a look into village life; Thinle will introduce us to his friends and relatives, and we might have the chance to visit a local house for some dried cheese (churpi) and salt-butter tea.
A free day in Saldang, in the Nangkhang region of Dolpo, with many options for the day's explorations. One is to make a loop through some of the villages north of Saldang, where the Autumn harvest will be in full force. Follow the Nagon Khola north to Karang and Marang villages for a look into village life; Thinle will introduce us to his friends and relatives, and we might have the chance to visit a local house for some dried cheese (churpi) and salt-butter tea.
Another option is to hire horses for a day-trip to Yanger Gompa, one of the oldest and most important in Dolpo, three or four hours to the north of Saldang along the eastern bank of the river. It's a beautiful ride,
Day 14:Trek to Khomasgaon 4100m
The exploratory section of the trek begins as we head northeast from Saldang along the little-trekked route to Khomasgaon. These next few days are said to be some of the most interesting and scenic in all of Dolpo, so we look forward to a bit of adventure We start the morning heading past Saldang Gompa and Amchi (Tibetan doctor) hospital to lower Saldang, continuing along the Nagon Khola past several bustling, white-washed villages, long mani walls, painted chortens and old gompas perched high up along the mountainsides. At Chagaon, we turn left, crossing the river and heading northeast along a smaller trail. It's a good day's walk to reach Khomasgaon where we will look for a good campsite for the night.
The exploratory section of the trek begins as we head northeast from Saldang along the little-trekked route to Khomasgaon. These next few days are said to be some of the most interesting and scenic in all of Dolpo, so we look forward to a bit of adventure We start the morning heading past Saldang Gompa and Amchi (Tibetan doctor) hospital to lower Saldang, continuing along the Nagon Khola past several bustling, white-washed villages, long mani walls, painted chortens and old gompas perched high up along the mountainsides. At Chagaon, we turn left, crossing the river and heading northeast along a smaller trail. It's a good day's walk to reach Khomasgaon where we will look for a good campsite for the night.
Day 15:Trek to Shimen 3850m
Another exploratory day, but a shorter one. we leave Khomasgaon ('gaon' is village in Nepali) and soon cross the Gurchhu Khola, afterwards ascending to a small pass, the Shimen La, at 4260 meters. From the crest of the pass, it's a short hike down to the intersection of the northern trail from Saldang, which follows the Panjyan (Panzang) Khola. We are now in the Panzang district of Dolpo, Shimen is just past this intersection, and there is supposed to be a good campsite in the grazing pastures above the village.
Another exploratory day, but a shorter one. we leave Khomasgaon ('gaon' is village in Nepali) and soon cross the Gurchhu Khola, afterwards ascending to a small pass, the Shimen La, at 4260 meters. From the crest of the pass, it's a short hike down to the intersection of the northern trail from Saldang, which follows the Panjyan (Panzang) Khola. We are now in the Panzang district of Dolpo, Shimen is just past this intersection, and there is supposed to be a good campsite in the grazing pastures above the village.
Day 16:Trek to Thinje (Thinkyu) 4110m
Heading south along the Panjyan (Panzang) Khola, staying on the eastern bank, we pass two trails leading north to the border of Tibet on our left, and further along Pu Gompa in the hills to the right. Namyal (Namgyal) Gompa is another hour away also to the south of the trail, a larger gompa. From Targaon and Phalwa, another trail branches off to the north heading to the Tibetan border, signifying how important trade with Tibet is still to the Dolpo-pa. Thinje (Thinkyu), just past this intersection and before another, is a large, prominent village from where many of the villagers acting in the movie 'Himalaya' come. Tenzin Norbu, the famous 'Ngagpa' painter of Dolpo, also comes from the Panzang region. In the old times, his ancestors, also monk painters, traveled to Lo Monthang in Mustang to pay their tribute in murals, thankas and mani walls.
Heading south along the Panjyan (Panzang) Khola, staying on the eastern bank, we pass two trails leading north to the border of Tibet on our left, and further along Pu Gompa in the hills to the right. Namyal (Namgyal) Gompa is another hour away also to the south of the trail, a larger gompa. From Targaon and Phalwa, another trail branches off to the north heading to the Tibetan border, signifying how important trade with Tibet is still to the Dolpo-pa. Thinje (Thinkyu), just past this intersection and before another, is a large, prominent village from where many of the villagers acting in the movie 'Himalaya' come. Tenzin Norbu, the famous 'Ngagpa' painter of Dolpo, also comes from the Panzang region. In the old times, his ancestors, also monk painters, traveled to Lo Monthang in Mustang to pay their tribute in murals, thankas and mani walls.
Day 17:Thinje (Thinkyu)
We have a 'rest' day to do some exploring of this remote section of Dolpo, very close to the border of Tibet. Thinle knows many people in this village, so we'll have a chance to visit some of the local houses.
We have a 'rest' day to do some exploring of this remote section of Dolpo, very close to the border of Tibet. Thinle knows many people in this village, so we'll have a chance to visit some of the local houses.
Day 18:Trek to Mid-Camp. We catch the trail at the intersection of the Panzang Khola and the Sulun Khola, and head in a westerly direction from here. We stop for the night before tomorrow's pass.
Day 19:Trek to Tokyu 4225m
Another pass day, so we're up early for the ascent of the Chhoila Pass, at 5050 meters. Following the river of the same name, we emerge into the wider Jyanta Khola valley (the main trail) soon. Back on familiar trails, we just have a short walk to our wonderful chorten-side campsite at Tokyu, with a trickling stream in front of the dining tent for washing up. Tokyu village, which is in Lower Dolpo, is just a fifteen minute walk below us, at the intersection of the two rivers. You'll probably run into other trekkers between Tokyu and Dho Tarap, and can buy some basic supplies and beer at the small shops and Tibetan tents in the village.
Another pass day, so we're up early for the ascent of the Chhoila Pass, at 5050 meters. Following the river of the same name, we emerge into the wider Jyanta Khola valley (the main trail) soon. Back on familiar trails, we just have a short walk to our wonderful chorten-side campsite at Tokyu, with a trickling stream in front of the dining tent for washing up. Tokyu village, which is in Lower Dolpo, is just a fifteen minute walk below us, at the intersection of the two rivers. You'll probably run into other trekkers between Tokyu and Dho Tarap, and can buy some basic supplies and beer at the small shops and Tibetan tents in the village.
Day 20:Visit Dho Tarap. Trek to Changla Base Camp
It's an interesting walk from Tokyu to Dho Tarap during harvest time, with villagers in their distinctive Dolpo-striped aprons out threshing the barley with wooden threshers. We'll have a chance to visit several gompas that date from centuries past; Ripuche Gompa, Chamba Gompa, Kakar and the gompa at Dho Tarap called Ribo Bhumpa, rebuilt in 1955. Interestingly, there is a Bon chorten next to the Buddhist gompa, which is said to contain the relics of a demon killed by Guru Rimpoche. Above this gompa is another older Buddhist gompa, Mekyem Gompa. Dho, the name of the village at the south of the region of Tarap (but it the whole extended village is usually referred to as Dho Tarap) is a maze of mud-brick Tibetan houses which was also featured in 'Himalaya', the village where Karma and his band of young Dolpo-pa, and Thinle and his older group of Dolpo-pa, set off with their salt to trade for barley over the high passes. The movie gives a wonderful picture of daily life in the village; the house, the particular dress and jewelry of the Dho inhabitants, the yaks and animals, weaving, dying cloth, making bread and chang, working in the fields, archery, astrology, Buddhist customs, relationships and the vigor of life in a high, remote and arid Himalayan village.
It's an interesting walk from Tokyu to Dho Tarap during harvest time, with villagers in their distinctive Dolpo-striped aprons out threshing the barley with wooden threshers. We'll have a chance to visit several gompas that date from centuries past; Ripuche Gompa, Chamba Gompa, Kakar and the gompa at Dho Tarap called Ribo Bhumpa, rebuilt in 1955. Interestingly, there is a Bon chorten next to the Buddhist gompa, which is said to contain the relics of a demon killed by Guru Rimpoche. Above this gompa is another older Buddhist gompa, Mekyem Gompa. Dho, the name of the village at the south of the region of Tarap (but it the whole extended village is usually referred to as Dho Tarap) is a maze of mud-brick Tibetan houses which was also featured in 'Himalaya', the village where Karma and his band of young Dolpo-pa, and Thinle and his older group of Dolpo-pa, set off with their salt to trade for barley over the high passes. The movie gives a wonderful picture of daily life in the village; the house, the particular dress and jewelry of the Dho inhabitants, the yaks and animals, weaving, dying cloth, making bread and chang, working in the fields, archery, astrology, Buddhist customs, relationships and the vigor of life in a high, remote and arid Himalayan village.
The second stage of our exploratory begins; we head west along the trail leading eventually to Jomsom, through Ship Chok with its red gompa, and then continuing on to Dhoro (Do-Ro) and Dhoro Gompa. The broad valley narrows as we head towards the Chanla (Chharka) Pass, one of the stormy passes featured in 'Himalaya', and we set up camp somewhere in the valley before the pass, with views of snow-capped Norbu Khola gracing our campsite.
We'll take six more days to reach Jomsom along a breath-taking route, with very challenging trekking days and many high passes to reach Mustang.
Day 21:Trek to Keheng Khola Camp
After a good breakfast, we hike along the Tarpi Khola and switchback up to the Chanla (Chharka) Pass.
After a good breakfast, we hike along the Tarpi Khola and switchback up to the Chanla (Chharka) Pass.
Descending quickly on a gravel path, the valley soon opens as we follow the stream past local doksas (herding settlements), yaks and herders down to the intersection of our stream with the Chaju (Keheng) Khola, where we will set up camp for the night on a flat plateau, gazing up at the Himalayan skies in the evening ...
Day 22:Trek to Sumdo or Norbulung 4575m
We cross the watershed leading south to the Bharbung Khola on a small bridge, and the head north along the Chharka Tulsi Khola. We should have fantastic views of the Dhaulagiri Massif to the east once past the Bharbung Khola intersection, so hope for make some offerings to the local Gods for good weather. After an hour or so of arid landscapes, we spot the first entrance chorten of Chharka, followed soon after by a larger chorten, barley fields and carved mani walls. Chharka is a small hamlet of closely-built, white-washed dwellings, medieval in feel, with a Bon-po monastery, Sarchhen Gompa.
We cross the watershed leading south to the Bharbung Khola on a small bridge, and the head north along the Chharka Tulsi Khola. We should have fantastic views of the Dhaulagiri Massif to the east once past the Bharbung Khola intersection, so hope for make some offerings to the local Gods for good weather. After an hour or so of arid landscapes, we spot the first entrance chorten of Chharka, followed soon after by a larger chorten, barley fields and carved mani walls. Chharka is a small hamlet of closely-built, white-washed dwellings, medieval in feel, with a Bon-po monastery, Sarchhen Gompa.
We follow the Chharka Khola to the intersection of the Thansan Khola, having to cross the river on a small bridge. The campsite right after this river crossing is Sumdo, and we may set up camp for the night here, or we may continue on to a campsite called Norbulung, down the east bank of the Thansan Khola.
Day 23:Trek to Sangda Low Camp or Sangda Phedi 5100m
After Sumdo Camp, trekking along the Thansan Khola, the valley narrows for a bit and then widens into broad plains at a three-way river junction; this is what the locals call Norbulung. We then pass through the high yak pastures of Molum Sumdo (4860m) and continue on to a crest at 5130 meters. We're trekking through a remote region of stark, Himalayan beauty, with varying hues of ochre, sable and tan, classic mountain scenery. We continue on past several river junctions and camp somewhere below the two passes we have to cross the next day. There is also supposed to be a camp at Sangda Phedi, by a stream between the two passes, so we'll play this by ear.
After Sumdo Camp, trekking along the Thansan Khola, the valley narrows for a bit and then widens into broad plains at a three-way river junction; this is what the locals call Norbulung. We then pass through the high yak pastures of Molum Sumdo (4860m) and continue on to a crest at 5130 meters. We're trekking through a remote region of stark, Himalayan beauty, with varying hues of ochre, sable and tan, classic mountain scenery. We continue on past several river junctions and camp somewhere below the two passes we have to cross the next day. There is also supposed to be a camp at Sangda Phedi, by a stream between the two passes, so we'll play this by ear.
Day 24:Trek to Sangda 3700m
A two-pass day if we haven't made it to Phedi, so up early to cross the 5460 meter Sangda La, a long, tough pass crossing but with fantastic views from the top. We descend along a steep, gravel trail, quite difficult, to Sangda Phedi. We'll continue on, crossing the lower Sangda La, 4990 meters, and then descend through loose shale. When we'll arrive at the winter grazing settlement of Sangda Gunsa (Sangdak), at the intersection of the Bheri Khola and the Kyalunpa Khola. It's another few hours, following the Kyalunpa Khola which we cross once, we reach the village of Sangda (Santa), a remote outpost of Gurung Tibetans which Carsten says are originally from Mustang. This is blue sheep territory, so have your binoculars out!
A two-pass day if we haven't made it to Phedi, so up early to cross the 5460 meter Sangda La, a long, tough pass crossing but with fantastic views from the top. We descend along a steep, gravel trail, quite difficult, to Sangda Phedi. We'll continue on, crossing the lower Sangda La, 4990 meters, and then descend through loose shale. When we'll arrive at the winter grazing settlement of Sangda Gunsa (Sangdak), at the intersection of the Bheri Khola and the Kyalunpa Khola. It's another few hours, following the Kyalunpa Khola which we cross once, we reach the village of Sangda (Santa), a remote outpost of Gurung Tibetans which Carsten says are originally from Mustang. This is blue sheep territory, so have your binoculars out!
Day 25:Trek to Dhagarjun 3280m
From Sangda, we start climbing and spend most of the morning making a high traverse, crossing many ridges until we finally reach the 'pass' at 4280 meters. From the crest, we have a magnificent vista, looking out to snow-capped peaks and down to Mustang's patch-work of trails and villages far below. Kagbeni, Jharkot, Muktinath, Thorung Peak., the Thorung La, Niligiri, Daulaghiri and the Kali Gandaki are all visible, an awe-inspiring site!
From Sangda, we start climbing and spend most of the morning making a high traverse, crossing many ridges until we finally reach the 'pass' at 4280 meters. From the crest, we have a magnificent vista, looking out to snow-capped peaks and down to Mustang's patch-work of trails and villages far below. Kagbeni, Jharkot, Muktinath, Thorung Peak., the Thorung La, Niligiri, Daulaghiri and the Kali Gandaki are all visible, an awe-inspiring site!
From here, we descend quite steeply into the Kali Gandaki valley, reaching the fortress-like entrances to the small villages of Phalyak (Phalla) and nearby Dhagarjun, where we camp for the night.
Day 26:Trek to Jomsom 2724m
Stick your heads out of your tents to see the sunrise on Niligiri and Daulaghiri before breakfast in our dining tent. Himalayan sunrises and sunsets remind us of why we've come all this way, We climb to a small ridge, and then head directly south towards Jomsom, the district headquarters of Mustang, back to 'civilization' on the Annapurna Circuit. We reach the long, cobbled path that connects upper and lower Jomsom, along which beautiful textiles, woven on hand looms in the traditional style, and are displayed by Mustangi women. At the Trekker's Lodge in lower Jomsom, cold beers and hot showers, both well deserved, await. We'll celebrate our wonderful journey through remote Dolpo in the evening with our fantastic crew, and hand out tips and bonuses ...
Stick your heads out of your tents to see the sunrise on Niligiri and Daulaghiri before breakfast in our dining tent. Himalayan sunrises and sunsets remind us of why we've come all this way, We climb to a small ridge, and then head directly south towards Jomsom, the district headquarters of Mustang, back to 'civilization' on the Annapurna Circuit. We reach the long, cobbled path that connects upper and lower Jomsom, along which beautiful textiles, woven on hand looms in the traditional style, and are displayed by Mustangi women. At the Trekker's Lodge in lower Jomsom, cold beers and hot showers, both well deserved, await. We'll celebrate our wonderful journey through remote Dolpo in the evening with our fantastic crew, and hand out tips and bonuses ...
Day 27:Fly Pokhara & Kathmandu
The end of an amazing trek, and an equally impressive exit as we fly by Daulaghiri and the Annapurnas range to reach Pokhara, where we transfer to a flight to Kathmandu. Back in Kathmandu,
The end of an amazing trek, and an equally impressive exit as we fly by Daulaghiri and the Annapurnas range to reach Pokhara, where we transfer to a flight to Kathmandu. Back in Kathmandu,
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